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WhiteTrash BBQ -- Real Pit Barbecue from New York City. This is the story of a fire obsessed guy, living in Brooklyn, with a dream of producing award winning, competition busting, real Barbeque. Come live the dream as I compete around the country in the KCBS Championship Barbecue circuit.

Friday, July 27, 2007

Restaurant Review: Townline BBQ

Here's Joan Reminick of Newsday's review of Townline BBQ. I haven't been out here yet, so I don't know if I agree with Joan's review, but a buddy of mine Rob Devine is the pit master. If you're on the east end of Long Island be sure to check it out.

Townline BBQ
Townline Road and Montauk Highway
Sagaponack, NY

It was midday at Townline BBQ, the long-awaited Hamptons 'cue oasis that should have opened in early June but didn't until this past Monday. Not a big lunch crowd. Yet. But chef Joseph Realmuto, backed by the owners of the celebrated Nick & Toni's in East Hampton, are sure to draw a glam following.

I surveyed the order-at-the-counter place. Lots of wood, lots of hard, shiny surfaces, a few picnic tables outdoors framing the Sagaponack fields stretching far into the distance. A dog was lazing under one of the outdoor tables where two women contentedly polished off a pile of ribs and a sandwich.

It wasn't long before the flying saucer-like contraption I got when I ordered started to flash and vibrate. And then, four of us were elbow-deep in ribs, brisket, pulled pork and chicken. We had a pile of paper towels, put to good use.

An upbeat Johnny Cash album I'd never heard before was on the sound system. It went surprisingly well in the laid-back ambiance of a joint more South Carolina than Sagaponack.

Pork ribs, smoky and satisfying, would have been even better if they'd been hot rather than lukewarm. The same held true for the meaty beef ribs, two of which could easily make a meal. A pulled pork sandwich was pure pleasure on a potato bun, piled with tangy cole slaw. Fine, too, was a sandwich made with brisket (which we ordered fatty rather than lean), the thick slices contrasting well with the house-made spicy bread and butter pickles on top of them.

I was let down, however, by the barbecued chicken, a pallid bird in both taste and color. Nor was I especially fond of the "Texas link," dry barbecued beef and pork sausage. Baked beans, however, were ideal, tasting of the barbecue pit and not too sweet. And the crisp, thin, perfectly salted fries were impossible to stop eating.

The surprise of the meal was dessert. Banana pudding, served in a plastic cup with vanilla wafers wedged in all around, was creamy and lush, capped with a cloud of freshly whipped cream. The same topping crowned an icebox cake -- chocolate pudding and graham crumbs. What stole the show, however, was a warm and flaky fried cherry pie, brought to our table by one of the restaurant's owners, Mark Smith. It took longer than everything else, he said, because it had been fried to order.

Reviewed by Joan Reminick, 7/25/07.

Hours: Sunday to Thursday, 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m., Friday and Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m.

Cuisine: Barbecue
Price Range: Inexpensive (Under $15), Moderate ($15-$25)

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At 6:36 AM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

I know these guys, and have been following this opening for over two years. They've researched long and hard, and done lotsa trials and tryouts to get the product right.

As a bbq fanatic-- lived 5yrs in NC, where my wife was born/raised-- I can truly say that these guys have hit the mark.

The bbq is meaty, juicy and smoky-- not stewed in sauce like most NYC area joints. Tried all the sides and they're right on.

Aside from the fact that this area needs more inexpensive options, this place is doing it right. Most NYC rest critics don't know from bbq, and it sounds like here's one (ya don't judge a bbq joint on the chicken!!).

Anyway, this KCBS member/SmokeRing regular highly reccommends this new spot as a must must stop.


At 9:11 AM, Blogger Backyard Chef said...

I'm looking forward to giving this place a shot. I'll be by there this week.

To the previous comment-- the bbq places that I've been eating at in NYC don't stew anything in sauce. The meats are cooked low and slow over wood...There are plenty of us that live within the 5 boroughs that know from the real deal. I don't mean to seem snarky, but the idea that New Yorkers can't possibly know from good bbq should be put to rest already....


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